Extraction and formulation of perfume from plant
CHAPTER ONE
1. 1 INTRODUCTION
The word perfume derives from the latin ―per fumum‖ meaning
through smoke, is fragrant liquid that is sprayed or rubbed on the skin or
clothes to give a pleasant smell. Extraction of perfume from various plants
resources is of ancient origin. Infact the natives from different tropical
regions of the globe have long been extracting oil from numerous oil bearing
plants.
Human since the ancient time have known how to extract oil
from their natural resources. Vegetable oils are naturally occurring esters of
higher fatty acids and glycerol. They are widely distributed in nature and were
first consumed as food. Later oils were discovered to be used as renewable raw
materials for variety of non food production, for instance perfumes,
disinfectants, inks to mention but a few.
1.2 BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY
Several thousands of plants distributed throughtout the world
contain a group of odiferous, fragrance, oily products that are highly volatile
organic substances collectively known as essential oils. ―Essential‖ does not
mean ―most necessary‖ but rather the concentrated characteristics or
quintessence of a natural flavor or fragrance raw material (Coulson et al,
2003). Therefore, perfume may be from essential oils of vegetables or plant
origin. It is a complex mixture of aldehydes, ketones, hydrocarbons, alcoholic
acid and short chain esters. The existence of perfume on certain plants has
been known for thousands of years. They can be found in leaves, flowers, stems,
barks, and roots.
Ancient Egytians extracted essential oils from plants tissues
by steam distillation (Ogbu,2005). Other methods of isolating essential oils
includes solvent extraction, expression, cold plate or enfleurage. Some of
these methods have been adopted by essential oil extracting industries.
Information on perfume when the essential oils have been extracted from plants
are of different type of oils and these will ultimately influence the smell of
perfume over time namely:
1. The base oil (Base notes)– this will produce the scent that
stays longest on the skin and for this reason it is usually added to the
mixture e.g vanilla, ginnamon, sandalwood, mosses etc.
2. The middle oil (middle notes)- this also influences the smell of the
perfume for quite sometime but not as long as the base note does e.g lemon
grass, Yalang Ylang etc.
3. Top oil (top notes)- this is added to the mixture after
the middle notes and may then be followed by some other substances which will
help to bridge the scents together e.g orchard, rose, bergamount, lemon,orchid
etc.
A formulation or recipe that rightly blend with the oil or
fragrance is used and the reason perfume differs is due to the formulation or
recipe that will give pleasant odour. It is necessary to choose a good recipe
of formulation. Alcohol is added to the fragrance or essential oils as a
primary solvent to reduce the strays of the oils.
Fixatives are also used with the other ingredients like
water, essential oils and alcohol to lower the rate of evaporation of the
fragrance of essential oils. The reason why a perfume losses its fragrance
faster than normal is because only a little amount of fixative was used when
preparing the perfume.
1.3 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM
There is a high demand of essential oils for various purposes
such as medicinal, perfumery, soap making, insecticides to mention but a few
have opened up wide opportunities for global warming.
Imported essential oils are very expensive to meet the demand
of our local consumer industries, therefore it becomes necessary to source and
extract these oils from local source. In particular perfumes that are usually
imported can be produced locally from a vast variety of oil bearing plants yet
to be explored.
It has also been observed that high concentration of perfumes
in the epidermal tissues can cause skin irritation or peeling due to poor
formulation. This problem will be explored on this project. Solvent extraction
is the safest method for extracting high quality oil because some herbs and
spices cannot be extracted from enfleurage method but it has the disadvantage
of having residual solvents in the essential oils.
The research is conducted in order to use hydrodistillation
as one of the applicable methods to extract essential oils. Hydrodistillation
has the advantage of no solvent residues as an alternative to conventional
extraction techniques. This research will reveal the difference in yields by
the methods.
1.4 JUSTIFICATION OF THE STUDY
It is hoped that from this research work, optimum extraction
parameters like solvent type, solvent ratio, contact time and particle size and
the quality of perfume would be established. The result obtained would add to
the data bank that could help potential industrialist who intends to go into
perfume production from plants. Consequently, more processing industries would
lead to a higher production both for domestic consumption and export. Major
consumers of essential oils are the perfumery, cosmetics, food and beverages
and pharmaceutical industries.
Most of these industries in Nigeria depend on imported
essential oils for their production and this makes their products very
expensive. Interestling, some of these source of essential oils are common in
Nigeria such as lemon grass, ginger, flowers, eucalyptus to mention but a few.
There is a high potential in this area and it becomes necessary to seek means
to explore and exploit area with the aim of providing our local industries with
these essential oils. There are great biodiversity in the ecosystem when it is
tapped into the economy of Nigeria will be improved upon. It can also create
numerous job opportunities for the youth as both industries and farmers will be
employers of labour.
1.5 OBJECTIVE OF THE RESEARCH
The main objective of this research is to extract essential
oil from lemon grass (cymbopogon citrasus) using solvent extraction,
enfleurage, and hydrodistillation and formulating the perfume.
1.6 SCOPE OF THE RESEARCH
I. Investigate the effect of solvent nature on extraction in
terms of yield and formulation of the extracted essential oil. Three methods
will be used; solvent extraction, enfleurage and hydrodistillation. Attempt
will be made to formulate the essential oil into perfume.
II To Formulate perfume using appropriate materials Iii The
composition of perfume and its concentration.
CHAPTER TWO
2.1 THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY
People‘s use of scents, aroma and fragrances has been used
for many centuries.Since the beginning of recorded history, humans have
attempted to mask or enhance their own odor by using perfume, which emulates
nature’s pleasant smells. Many natural and man-made materials have been used to
make perfume to apply to the skin and clothing, to put in cleaners and
cosmetics, or to scent the air. Because of differences in body chemistry,
temperature, and body odors, no perfume will smell exactly the same on any two
people.
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